Monday, August 31, 2009

Journey to Puno

We retraced our route back over the high mountain pass and then headed east towards Puno today. I slept for part of the trip, read for the rest, all the while with V's CD "Chick Flicks" playing on continuous repeat (much to K's annoyance). We wandered around Puno for a while, but there wasn't too much to see, just the regular handicrafts and the town market. For supper, we went to a place that served cuy (guinea pig). Of course, I had to order it! It came sitting up on my plate with a cute little tomato crown. It's taste and texture were very similar to chicken, but the skin was too tough and thick to eat, and there wasn't much meat on it - lots of bones.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Colca Canyon

Today, we spent the day exploring the Colca Canyon - one of the deepest canyons in the world. We got up fairly early to drive deeper into the canyon to Cruz del Condor - a popular place to watch the Andean Condors soaring. These birds are huge, with wingspans around 10 ft! It was awesome to watch them soaring through the canyon and swooping down over us, all in complete silence (condors don't make any noises).
I also spotted a humming bird visiting the flowers while I was waiting for the condors to reappear.
On our way our of the canyon, we stopped at a couple view points to admire the Inca terraces that are still being used by farmers today. It was the end of the dry season so there wasn't much growing, but it was still beautiful.
We arrived back in Chivay in time to watch the locals celebrate the patron saint of police with a small ceremony where they gave bread and flowers to the police, followed by a parade around the main plaza. Many of the older women were dressed in traditional clothing.
After a relaxing soak in the hot springs, we went out for supper were we were given a show of traditional music and dancing. Our group was the only one to join in the dancing, and K and I were also pulled in to the dance "I love you because you hit me". I this dance, one partner makes the other partner lie on there back on the floor with their face covered. They then WHIP the person on the floor a few times, pull them back onto their feet, and continue dancing. K got whacked pretty good by the girl a few times, but the guy just hit the floor beside me :) Sometimes it pays to be a girl!

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Drive to Colca Canyon

We did a lot of driving today! After picking up all sorts of coca products (leaves, cookies, candies), we headed up into the Andes. After a couple of hours driving, we stopped to have some coca-muna tea. I found that the coca tasted and smelt a bit like spinach, and the muna - used to open up your airways - tastes like mint. The combination was pretty good, actually. The next part of the road was rough and rutted as we traveled through an animal sanctuary where we were able to see vicunas, alpacas, and llamas.
Our next stop was the highest we would be in Peru - Patapamba, at 15,750 ft above sea level! We walked around for a bit, but were careful not to do too much because of the thin air. Our guide for this part of the trip showed up how to roll the coca leaves around a piece of special rock and then lightly chew on the bundle. At first it didn't have much taste at all, but after a minute it started giving off a bitter and gross flavour (I didn't chew it very long after that). After being up there for about 15 minutes, I had a bit of a headache, but it wasn't too bad. K ended up getting pretty sick from the altitude, poor guy.
We descended into the Colca Canyon and at the first view point were greeted by the always present women and children selling handicrafts and a chance for a picture with a local.
After lunch, we were given the opportunity to go for a short hike above the village we were staying in, but I decided to wander around a bit by myself and just take it easy - being above 12,000 ft makes me a bit lazy!

Friday, August 28, 2009

Arequipa

I slept well enough on the bus to not need a nap after getting to Arequipa, so after cleaning up, headed out to a cafe that our group leader had told us about - they provided free phone calls to North America! After my breakfast, I called your mom and talked to her for a bit (Oma and Opa were in Alberta, so I couldn't call them).
I met D in the hotel lobby and decided to spend the day exploring with him and C. Arequipa sits at 7600 ft above sea level, so we used the day to acclimatize to the altitude. The city was built from a very light coloured volcanic rock, so the older buildings dazzle in the sun, giving the city its nickname, "the White City". Our first stop was to see a frozen Inca girl who was sacrificed to one of the volcanoes surrounding the city - "Juanita".
After walking around the main square, we went into the Santa Catalina Monastery. It was a lot larger than we expected, but beautifully decorated and very colourful.

We had a light lunch at a French Crepery, then found a grocery store and bought some water and snacks for our ride the next day. I also picked up some postcards, stamps, and some more cash. We visited a few more colonial style churches, had coffee on a terrace overlooking the main plaza, then returned to the hotel to met the rest of the group for supper. That night, most of us tried alpaca steaks. The restaurant cooked them perfectly - alpaca is a very lean meat, but they managed to keep it tender and moist. It was delicious!

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Nazca

The first trip of the day was to the airport and onboard a small plane for a flight over the Nazca Lines. C didn't go - she had heard too many reports about the lack of safety - but the rest of us were brave enough.

It was an "interesting" flight - definately not the same standards of safety that they have in North America:

  • no passenger briefing (i.e. how to get out if there's a crash, where the 1st aid kit and fire extinguisher are)
  • during the climb-out, the stall warning was going off almost continuously
  • all the turns around the figures are steep turns and again, the stall warning was blaring, all while the pilot was looking down at the figure, never checking his instruments (a recipe for a spiral dive)

I was definately glad to have taken a gravol before the flight. H and L were in the back seat and pretty sick by the end it. The figures were easier to see in real life than in the pictures I took, but some of them worked alright.

After meeting back with V and C, we drove out to an Inca cemetery. There were two mummies in glass cases to look at in the museum, then we went to look at the mummies still sitting in their graves. Many of them had been damaged be grave robbers, as well as by the sun and wind, but they were still very well preserved. The Incas believed that the head was the seed that life came from, so most of the mummies had their heads cut off. They also had long hair (sometimes with hair from others sewn into their own) to signify their position - the longer the hair, the higher their place in society.

The third stop for the day was to learn how gold was removed from rocks and then refined. The visit was free, but the really push you to give them a tip at the end and hopefully buy something from them.

We were dropped of in Nazca to find our own lunch and I went with K, C and D to a fairly fancy hotel with good food. We didn't spend much more time in the town - there isn't much in Nazca. We squished into a cab and went back to the hotel to relax and swim in the pool.

After sunset, we headed out to have a traditional celebration meal. All the food is cooked underground for three to four hours, then there is a bit of a ceremony before it is uncovered and served. It was all very good!

After we had all stuffed ourselves full, we went off to the bus station to catch the night bus to Arequipa. The bus was about 45 minutes late, so the bus company bought us supper (which we were too full to eat). We did try the desert though - a weird jelly type of thing made from purple corn that is flavoured with cloves and cinnamon ... and has the texture of snot. It was hard to get some to stay on the spoon!

The night bus was uneventful - we were on the upper level, and the seats recline about 45 degrees back and there is a bit of a leg rest. I slept for a few hours, but woke up frequently.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Paracas to Nazca

The sound of lots of cars honking outside my window woke me up this morning. After an early breakfast (and a gravol), we took a boat tour of the Ballestas Islands - known as the poor man´s Galapagos. We saw LOTS of cormorants, pelicans, penguins and sea lions, and the water was a bit rough, so I was glad for the gravol. As we approached the islands, there was a large flock or cormorants washing in the Pacific - probably close to 1 million! They took off when the boat got close and started flying away from us in what looked like a giant highway. Our next stop was a tour of a winery that makes Pisco - a type of brandy. After the tour, they sat us in a semi-circle and gave us samples of 7 different types! It tasted alright, but I didn´t want to lug a bottle of it around with me for 3 weeks. We stopped for lunch at Huacichina, a true desert oasis. I hiked part way up one of the dunes with the twins, but it was too hot and tiring to get all the way up. For every step up, you slide at least half a step down! Swimming in the cool water afterwards was very refreshing. We then got back into our van and drove to Nazca - another long drive through gray desert. We arrived after sunset, but still went swimming in the pool - it had a concrete slide!

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Lima to Paracas

I woke up early, showered, repacked my bags, then headed upstairs for breakfast. The food was decent, and the room gave a view over Lima. It´s a gray city, not the cleanest, and looks a bit run down. The group wasn´t meeting until 1:30, so I spent the morning exploring Miraflores (one of the districts in Lima). It took about 20 minutes to walk (dodging cars at every intersection) to the ocean cliffs, but I didn´t see any ways down that didn´t look too scary, so I stayed along the top. They put a shopping mall into part of the cliff - from the top it looks just like a park, but down a few steps, and there are the stores! One of the parks is called Parque del Amor (the Love Park) - it has a large sculpture called "The Kiss" and walls along the coast decorated with colourful mosaics. I found an internet cafe so I could send an email to Oma and Opa and let them know I got here OK, then found some lunch. The group met up (I´m travelling with GAP Adventures and the group includes 2 Danish twins - H and L, a German couple - C and D, and an American guy - K, and of course, a group leader - V) and headed to the bus station for a 4 hour trip south along the coast to Paracas. It was a long, boring ride with my daypack on my lap (it´s a public bus, so anything on the floor or overhead racks will probably get stolen) through mostly gray dessert. We stayed in a small B&B near the ocean and had a great fish supper at a restaurant along the shore.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Lima, Peru

This morning, I was picked up by my sister and her family, who drove me to the airport. After I showed her husband and the oldest 2 kids where I worked, they dropped me off at the terminal (I think they went to look at the planes after that). Just as they started to board the flight, I heard my name being called over the speakers - they wanted to give me a free upgrade to First Class! Of course I took it, but unfortunatly it meant that I didn´t get the special meal I requested. But I did get LOTS of leg room (not that I need it), a comfort bag, and a leg rest! If you ever get the chance to fly First Class, do it. I arrived in Lima after an 8 hour flight and expected to have someone from GAP waiting to drive me to the hotel. Unfortunatly, the travel agent must have made a mistake somewhere, because it wasn´t booked! Luckly for my, he had a few other passengers going to my hotel and gave me a ride for $15, a lot less than the taxi would have cost me. The hotel room was small but clean, with a toilet that ran. I don´t know why, but you have to let the hot water run for 5 minutes before it becomes hot ... they put up a notice about it, so it must be something to do with their system.