Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts

Monday, October 11, 2010

To Entebbe and back again

It was nice to be able to sleep in, take a shower, and have a relaxing breakfast, but a bit lonely to sit there all by myself after being with friends for the last 4 weeks. I got the hotel to book me a taxi to the airport, and off I went.
My first flight was one I didn't originally plan have to take - a flight to Entebbe, just so I could catch my flight back to Nairobi. When I bought my flights to Africa, I wasn't sure whether I was going to Uganda before Kenya, or the other way around. The flights to Entebbe and Nairobi were the same price, so I bought return tickets to Entebbe with a stop over in Nairobi. When I tried to cancel the Entebbe to Nairobi portion of the flight, the airline wanted to charge me over $900 to NOT take a flight! The flight from Nairobi to Entebbe was around $250 ... guess which option I took!
When I checked in for the flight, I asked if they could check me and my bags all the way through to Canada, but I guess because of the connection in Nairobi the system got confused and wouldn't allow it, so was told that I had to check in again in Entebbe. I had about a 4 hour stopover in Entebbe, so plenty of time to collect my bags, go through customs (if I had to), and check-in for the rest of my flight.
Getting to Entebbe, I found the transfer office (before customs, so I could avoid the US$50 visa). The guy working there looked at my flight information, grabbed my passport, and asked if I wanted to go back to Nairobi on the plane I just came in on. I told him I'd do whatever was easiest for him, and he decided to send me back on the next flight. Since the flight was already boarding I had my doubts about getting on, but, ok! He took me around all the immigration desks and sat me down at the lost luggage desk while he filled-in some papers. I could see my bag going around and told him, so he took me over there and told me to grab my bag and then stay and wait for him while he ran off with my passport and flight info. He came back with another guy who ripped the old label off my bag and took the bag without attaching a new label (hence the "will my luggage ever be seen again?" feeling). We went back past immigration, up some back stairs, and back into the terminal. He left me sitting in a restaurant and off he went (still with my passport) to go and see if he could get me on the flight. After 10 minutes sitting there, he reappeared, handed me back all my papers, passport, and boarding passes all the way to Toronto! As I went through the gate, I was told that everyone was waiting for me, so I RAN down the stairs and across the ramp and into the plane ... where everyone was still slowly putting bags up and other passengers still got in after me!
So, it was back to Nairobi where I got to spend 6 hours sweating in a hot, stuffy terminal, then on to Amsterdam.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Back to Nairobi

Up at 5:30 and out of the campground by 7 - maybe staying up late wasn't such a great idea! We spent the whole day driving down the bumpy roads, swerving around construction areas, getting back to Nairobi at 2:30. We had no problems crossing the border back to Kenya, but of course, I had to get the unusual questions again. It was really loud in the room we were in and the guy was behind glass, so it took me a bit to understand what he was trying to ask. This time it was, "What's the secret?" (me, huh?) "Why do Canadians live so long?" I figured I'd go with "I don't know", got my passport stamped, and got out of there before he started to ask anything else.

I had my own room in the hotel in Nairobi, and it felt great to take a warm shower and be able to stay clean after I got out. A group of us (including one vegetarian) met in the lobby around 5 and headed out to Carnivore Restaurant - an all you can eat meat extravaganza! The restaurant doesn't serve any wild game anymore (they used to serve giraffe, wildebeest, etc.), but we were able to try crocodile (a cross between scallops and chicken), ostrich (very good, we got seconds of that one), and I even ate part of an ox ball (tasted like liver, really chewy, with a tough "skin"). All the meat is roasted over a pit in the centre of the restaurant, then delivered to the table on giant forks or swords, and carved with a machete onto your plate. There is a stand with various salads and dipping sauces in the middle of the table, and a flag on top of the stand. When you're done with the meat, you tip over the flag and they bring a desert menu. I had a delicious piece of chocolate cake for desert, then we finished off the evening with drinks near the pool at the hotel.

Most people had early flights the next day (or were planning to tour around the city), so while everyone else went to be, I went to use the internet for a while. Back at the hotel, we had met up again with our guide from the Masai village in Loita Hills, who also happens to be a trip leader for Intrepid (the company I used for this half of the trip). We had drinks with him and our trip leader, then I saw him again while emailing home - the 100 cows offer was still standing! I didn't think my dad would go for it (he emailed later that if it had been 125, he would have had a deal ... thanks, dad), made a lame excuse, and headed off to bed.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Country #20 - Tanzania!

Our first stop of the day was a a stone carving cooperative just outside Kisii - here we were shown how the soapstone was carved, polished, and painted before being shipped off to Ten Thousand Villages stores in North America. (I've been to the store, so it was neat to see the people who actually made the stuff!) I bought a stone elephant which they carefully wrapped up for me (and it actually made it all the way back to Canada in one piece!). The next stop was at the border with Tanzania. We left most of our stuff on the truck, and walked with our passports to the Kenyan customs office to exit the country. The officer I talked to only seemed interested in knowing if I (or anyone else in the group I was with) was from Nunavut! Then we walked across the border into Tanzania and went into the customs office there. I had bought my visa in Canada so didn't have to buy one there, but the few people in our group who needed a visa didn't have any hassles getting one. Then it was back on the truck and off to the shores of Lake Victoria where we spent the rest of the day. After lunch, some of the group did a bicycle trip through the neighbouring town, but I decided that I'd seen enough African markets, so didn't feel like paying someone to go see another one. Instead, I found a comfy spot to sit and relax while reading my book and listening to the waves lap against the beach. (There's nasty things in the water, so no swimming) The others got back form there bike ride at sunset, which also happened to be the same time a massive thunderstorm rolled in. We all made our way to the bar at the end of the beach, and sat around chatting in the dark (the power went out) for at least an hour. Then it was back to the cook shelter where we all squeezed in around the massive wood boiler for supper. We then had a hot shower and were in our tents by 9:30.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Kisii

Because we were so used to getting up early, even when we had the chance to sleep in, we were up early! After breakfast, we walked into town to the post office so we could mail our postcards, then we stopped by and internet cafe to send a few emails home. It was super cheap internet (lowest price I've ever seen!) - 1 shilling/minute ... or in Canadian dollars, 13 cents/10 minutes! Then it was back to the hotel, were we spent some time watching a confusing movie (we never figured out what was supposed to be going on) before meeting the rest of our group and heading west.

It was a beautiful drive - rolling hills with tea plantations, banana plantations, and maize fields ... and a lot of "Hotel and Butchery"s ... not sure I'd want to stay at one of those :S We had lunch at the side of the road where we got to teach the newbies how to wash their hands and dry dishes (all with a group of school kids looking on). We spent the night at a Catholic Mission Guest House - 2 people to a bedroom with the shared bathroom and shower stalls down the hall.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Narok

Another early morning wake up time (out of the campsite by 7 am!) - most of the group was driving back to Nairobi, so they wanted an early start. After 3 hours driving we reached Narok, where I was left with a few other girls from the group to try to entertain ourselves until the next morning when a new group (but same cook and leader) would join us for the second half of the trip through Tanzania.

We had an "interesting" hotel - the shower wasn't working (it wouldn't heat the water), the sink drain pipe came off, and the sink came part way off the wall when an bit of force was put on it! We had lunch in the town, then did some souvenir and snack food shopping. Back at the hotel, I wrote a few postcards, watched a soccer match, then we had supper as a group in the hotel restaurant. It wasn't the most exciting town to be stuck in for a day!

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Hot Air Balloon Ride over the Masai Mara

6 of us woke up at 4:30 am (before the electricity or water came on!) for a 5 am pick-up to go ballooning over the Masai Mara! We got to the launch site before sunrise and watched as the balloon slowly filled with air and and elephant followed by a herd of wildebeests marched by. We climbed in the basket while it was still on its side, scooched our butts right down to the seat, then hung on as the balloon lifted us upright so that the older French group could climb in ... they weren't quite as agile as us! We stayed seated for the lift off with our bags on our laps, but as soon as we were airborne, we were standing up leaning over the edge to check out the view. It was an overcast morning so we didn't get to watch the sunrise and it also meant that I didn't get many good pictures (my camera doesn't do well in low light conditions). But it was still amazing to see the expanse of savannah, the giant herds of wildebeests and zebras heading south, and the incredible amount of poop on the ground! Along with all the wildebeests and zebras, we also saw hyenas, warthogs, elephants, giraffes and lions. The first two lions we saw were sleeping and the another group of four lions (one female and three males) was wide awake and wandering around by the stream. One of the males looked right up at us as if to say "what are you doing up there?" We also got to observe two lions "copulating" ... it only took about 3 seconds! We had a soft landing and were able to climb up out of the basket while it was upright, then took a group picture with the basket before walking over to where breakfast was set up. There was champagne, orange juice, croissants, apple pastries, fruit, hard boiled eggs, sausages, quiche, yogurt, cereal, and tea and coffee. It tasted great! After we finished eating, our balloon pilot pointed out the lion on the hill behind us. We quickly used the "bathroom" (a jeep with a tarp strung up so no-one could see our bums when we squatted), then loaded into our open sided SUV for the ride to meet up with the rest of the group. We were expecting just a drive to the meeting spot - we ended up getting a hour and half game drive! Just after leaving the breakfast spot, two male lions walked right past us - it was a bit uncomfortable having a lion less than 8 metres away from me and walking towards me when there was NOTHING between us ... no car door, no window, no fence, etc.! We also saw a lot of cute little baby animals and some vultures tearing apart a wildebeest before meeting up with our group at a fancy lodge in the park. We continued the game drive with everyone else in the truck, stopping for lunch at the Mara River (the border between Kenya and Tanzania, and the Masai Mara and Serengeti parks). It's one of the spots where the wildebeests and zebras cross the river in their migration, so it smelt a bit like rotting, dead animals, and there was a large group of hippos on the opposite bank so we couldn't go near the water's edge. (There were probably crocodiles there too, but we didn't see any.) It was pretty hot, but we couldn't sit under the trees to eat, because that's where the lunch-stealing monkeys hung out! They managed to get one lady from our group's sandwich and from the shrieks some of the people in other groups were making, probably managed to grab a few more lunches! We drove a few more hours, bumping down the road (I managed to bash my head pretty hard on the ceiling after one bump!) and adding a mongoose sighting to my list of animals, we were back at camp for our final supper together. We had traditional Kenyan food again, then all had to stand up and make a speech about our experience on the trip. A group of Croatian guys was having a great time watching the spectacle - even turning their chairs to watch! They also asked if they could video us flapping our dishes (the method we used to dry them) ... of course, we were pretty entertaining since we had made up flapping songs to flap/dance to!

Friday, October 1, 2010

Masai Mara - Day 1

A lot of the group hardly slept at all, but I slept great! I decided to skip the shower (it was only cold water and the door didn't close properly), so just packed up the tent and had breakfast. After we finished cleaning up, we went back to the cow corral for the warrior dance - of course, since the cows had spent all night in there, there was plenty of fresh manure to step in!
It was really neat to see them dancing and jumping and to hear their singing. Apparently the guy who jumps the highest is the most attractive to the women of the village. They pulled our guys in for a jumping competition, the got the women to join in - we weren't allowed to jump, only dance.

We had time to take pictures with the warriors, then went to check out the stalls set up by the women of the village. (I bought a stripped blanket that I'll use in my guest bedroom - I decided to make it my "Africa room".)

Back in the truck, we drove a few hours to the Masai Mara. The "road" to our campground was pretty rough! After setting up and having lunch, we headed into the reserve for our first game drive. I added topi, wildebeasts (it was the end of the migration back to the Serengeti), lions (sleeping, of course) and a lepord (look closely to find it in the picture) to my list of animals.

After supper and a nice hot (wood fire heated) shower, it was off to sleep listening to the hyenas.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Loita Hills

After eating breakfast and packing up our tents (which didn't take anywhere near as long as the first time we did it), we got back in the truck and headed for Loita Hills. We made a quick stop in Narok to buy groceries, then stopped again along the road at a picnic spot for lunch. There were some tables and benches under a tree, but it was filled with starlings so we had to watch where we sat so we (and our food) didn't get pooped on! We also drove past a colourful market where we waited to meet our guide for the next two days. The road into Loita hills was pretty rough, but we were the only ones at the campground ... just us, the village over the hill, and our two Masai guards who would be staying at the fire and keeping the animals away all night! After setting up camp and relaxing for a while, we were given a quick tour of the village. We were brought into the cattle corral where we were welcomed by the women who had all the women join them in dancing around in a large circle - it's supposed to bring luck to the village, but what it definitely brought was hiking boots full of cow manure!After watching the sunset over the hills and the herd of cows coming in for the night, our guide brought us into one of the houses - they are small mud, dung, and thatch buildings, with only one or two small windows to let light in and smoke out, and keep animals out. Our guide also told us a bit about Masai culture, joking with us about how he wants six wives (one for Monday, one for Tuesday, one for Wednesday, etc., and a rest on Sunday). Each wife has their own house, and it costs about 10 cows to marry a girl. Their traditional food is meat, blood, and milk. I'm not sure how the conversation happened, but pretty soon after he told us that he was looking for his fourth wife, he offered a hundred cows for me! Hmm ... let me think about that for a bit. No.

We had supper in the hut at the campground, complete with cake for desert since it was one lady's birthday. We then sat around the fire with our Masai guide, learning the history of the Masai: They believe that the Spirit God put the Masai, cows, goats, and sheep on the earth at the same time, and therefore, all cows, goats, and sheep on the earth belong to them! We went to bed fairly early and only heard baboons during the night - no lions, elephants or hyenas.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Lake Naivasha

We woke up at 6:30 (no sleeping in on this holiday!) and after a breakfast of pancakes and sausages drove to an animal reserve outside Hell's Gate National Park for a walking safari. The park was full of zebras and giraffes, and we also saw a few colobus monkeys as we hiked down to a lake. We didn't look at the monkeys too long though - we were getting eaten alive by the mosquitoes hiding out in the woods!

After lunch at the camp, we boarded a few small boats for a tour of Lake Naivasha, which is famous for its hippo population. We saw a few hippos (but didn't stay too long - they could get mad at us and then kill us), cormorants, a waterbuffalo actually in the water, storks, and watched them feed fish to an African Fish Eagle - the guide put a piece of papyrus into a dead fish to make sure it floated, then tossed it into the water for the eagle to snatch.

We had seen a sign at the end of our campground warning about hippos coming out of the water at night, so, being the curious tourists that we were, we went down to check it out at 6 pm - no hippos. We went back at 7 pm - still no hippos. Apparently they don't actually come out until around 2 am and we weren't getting up in the middle of the night to try spot a hippo!That night, our cook had prepared a delicious, traditional Kenyan meal for us - ugali, greens, lentils, etc. - all very yummy!

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

The road to Lake Naivasha

It was a cold night and I was glad for my nice warm sleeping bag - I had felt a bit dumb bringing my -7 C rated bag with me (I didn't want to buy another for the trip), but it was needed! We packed up out tents, and after eating breakfast and cleaning dishes, we went for a guided walk to the village next to where we stayed. They showed us how they spun wool and knitted various items and how they made beads from old magazines ... then tried to get us to buy it, of course! While we were walking we also met a boy with a bird with a string tied around its leg. I guess that's what kids do for fun around there - catch birds and make them their pet for a while. He even stuffed it in his pocket as he walked behind us!

After a "brunch" (beef stew for brunch?) at 10:30, we drove into the town of Nakuru to buy groceries. I bought a few snacks at the supermarket, then sat with some of the others in a cute restaurant that served awesome smoothies. Then it was back on the bus to Lake Naivasha. As we drove, we went through a massive rain storm - the truck was pretty old so there were a few leaks and the sound of the hail hitting the roof was deafening!

The rain let up before we got to our campground but not for long. We quickly set up our tents (about half the group paid to upgrade to cabins) and went to the bar where we waited out another thunderstorm. We played a few games of pool before walking back to our campsites, and after played the longest game of Uno ever - 1 1/2 hours! (I don't think we were using the right rules ... we changed them after this epic game) I had a nice warm shower (water heated by a wood fire!) before climbing into bed around 10.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Lake Nakuru

Day one of a two week overland adventure! We were up early to shower (yay, warm water!) and eat breakfast, then it was off to load up the truck with luggage. In the trip notes, it had recommended duffle bags (not backpacks) that were 30cm x 30cm x 66cm so that they would easily fit in the space provided ... I think I was the only one that followed that piece of advise! So after a lot of squishing of bags and reorganization, the truck was finally loaded and we headed out of Nairobi. We were on one of the older trucks, so it rattled a lot, but because we were on two benches facing into the centre aisle, it was great for conversations, even if we did have to yell at each other :P The first stop was at the New Hope Orphanage. Coming from Juba, this place seemed awesome - well equipped, clean, colourful - though I'm sure I would have had a much different impression had I come straight from home. We were shown all around the place, but what struck me was how much of the talk seemed to be about who had given money and who had volunteered and ended with him basically asking us to come volunteer and give them stuff. Stop number two was at a lookout at the edge of the Rift Valley. Along with the view, we also got to experience our first bit of "local interaction" - i.e. dealing with locals trying to sell us stuff! We got to our campsite outside Lake Nakuru just before lunch (no-one camps in the park any more because of some lions that apparently ate some rangers a few years ago). We set up out tents, had lunch, and played a round of Uno (which I won!) before going into the park for our first game drive. Lake Nakuru was beautiful and full of animals. We saw rhinos, water buffalo, warthogs, dik diks, zebras, giraffes, flamingos, impala, Thompson gazelles, rock hyraxes, a black-backed jackal, pelicans, baboons, and an eland! Our old truck worked really well for looking at the animals - we put the seat cushions up on the back on the bench against the windows and sat up good an high! It also worked really well for shifting from one side to the other, since the animals are never on both sides at the same time.
After supper, we sat around a campfire for a while before going to bed. A few people took showers, but after one girl got stung by a wasp while washing her hair, I decided to just stay dirty!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Off to Nairobi

After eating some yummy, freshly baked beer bread, it was off to the airport (for the third time in a week!). There was a crowd outside the terminal and only the passengers were allowed in, so T and I said our good-byes at the door to the airport. Again, the airport in Juba is not your normal airport, and it doesn't help that all the flights depart at the same time, so it is chaos in there! I put my bags through the x-ray machine and walked through the metal detector (which I'm pretty sure wasn't even on), then pushed my way through the mass of people and bags to get my bags as they came through the x-ray machine.

I stood in what I thought was a line for a few minutes, then when it still hadn't moved (and I didn't even know if the "line" was for the right airline), I gave up and climbed over some luggage and shoved my way around the crowd of people weighing and packaging luggage, until I eventually found the Jetlink desk. I should also note that unlike most airports that have big signs behind them displaying the airline name and logo, in Juba, it's just a small name card at waist height - not much use when there's a crowd! I got checked in, handed my bag to them over the desk, then made my way over to the immigration desk.

After shoving myself over to the immigration desk, I showed my passport and travel permit, and both got stamped without me having to say a thing. I made my way over to the not so clean bathroom (T warned me that the one in the lounge area was even worse, so I figured I should probably go while I could) then to the "security" area. I pushed my way through the guys into the women's line, where a female security officer first couldn't find the stamp she was looking for in my passport, then hand searched part of my backpack and gave me a quick pat-down. I found a seat in the lounge (there aren't any gates, just door leading to the ramp) and read for a while waiting for my flight.

Another different thing about Juba is that they don't announce when flights are departing, you just have to KNOW when your flight is boarding! I saw a group of people suddenly stand and walk to the door so followed, but was met by an older lady who asked which flight I was on. Turns out that we were on the same flight and this wasn't it, so we sat down together and chatted for a while. The second time a group surged for the door (there isn't any assigned seating on the plane, so everyone makes a run for it so they can get a good seat) it was our flight, so off we went, pointing to our bags on the tarmac to identify them and get them loaded on the plane.

It was an uneventful flight to Nairobi, but I got a small meal and the plane seemed relatively new! In Nairobi I went to the Kenyan Airways desk to see if I could change my flights home, but they couldn't do anything about it. Getting into Kenya was simple - I already had my visa, so just needed to be fingerprinted and photographed. I took a taxi to the hotel, checked-in, sent an email home, then relaxed and read in the room, waiting for the group meeting. I had planned on taking a nice, relaxing, WARM shower, but there weren't any towels (I eventually got them later that evening, after calling the desk twice and then going downstairs to ask again) and there wasn't any hot water (that eventually got sorted out, too)!